Anza-Borrego Desert State Park Campground

For many years, my husband Garth and I have traveled the western states in our little 24-foot motorhome, along with our golden retriever Chase (and occasionally our cat!). In this and subsequent RVCYOB articles, I’ll share with you our experiences, our opinions on the best campsites to reserve, clever camping gear and gizmos, tried-and-true hacks, secret hikes, camp recipes, camping with pets and kids, things to avoid, and things you won’t want to miss. I hope you’ll enjoy traveling with us.

Camping at Anza-Borrego Desert State Park will change you. If you already love the high desert, it will deepen your appreciation. If you’re like me—a “redwoods, Rhododendrons and ferns” person—it will convert you. As it did me.

There’s a peacefulness, a simplicity, a quiet elegance and orderly beauty about the desert. It’s one of the most pure, uncontaminated natural places where you can witness Mother Nature’s brilliant orchestration of adaptation, survival, color and texture under a ceiling of wild lightning storms or a dazzling show of stars. I’ve come to love the desert—even though every plant could tear me apart!

In early February 2022, we tied in our week-long camping trip to Anza-Borrego to our week-long stay at San Elijo State Park (Cardiff). I highly recommend this. It was the perfect combo of ocean and desert experiences as only California can give you. You can read about San Elijo in my post on that campground.

We took Highway 78 from San Elijo over the mountains, through Julian and dropped down into Anza-Borrego Desert State Park. (Check road conditions for snow). We stopped to walk the quaint town of Julian, eat a very delicious and memorable slice of hot apple pie with melted cheddar cheese at Mom’s Pies, then pop into The Warm Hearth mercantile where we bought some amazing, unique things.

When we dropped down from of the forested mountains into Anza-Borrego, the stark moonscape below us morphed into beautiful desert—bright lacy green Palo Verde trees,  flowering ocotillo, fat barrel cacti, and fluffy cholla plants that look like cuddly white teddy bears but are covered in barbed spines. A world apart from San Elijo’s marine environment—and equally beautiful. Driving along to our campground was pure and utter delight.

Camping: There are two choices for RV camping in Anza-Borrego Desert State Park—upscale The Springs at Borrego RV Resort loaded with amenities, or the state campground Borrego Palm Canyon. We opted for the later. It was perfect for us.

Borrego Palm Canyon has 52 full-hookup pull-through sites that are generous, paved, and level. There is very little shade. There are 68 dry-camping sites. There are nice restrooms and showers (tokens). There’s a dump station and water fill up as well as spigots throughout. Maximum trailer/motorhome length is 35’.

Camping here is an “out in the desert” experience. It’s VERY quiet. You’ll see more stars than you ever have, as well as spectacular golden sunrises and red sunsets. The breeze picks up unexpectedly so most people forego putting out table cloths and are careful using their canopies.

Hiking: From camp you can hike the popular Borrego Palm Canyon Trail (3 mi round trip, no dogs), a gentle climb to a palm oasis and babbling brook. It’s a lovely hike in the morning or evening – take water, hat, hiking poles, binos and sunscreen. Watch for bighorn sheep. Also from camp, you can hike the Panoramic Overlook Trail (1 mi RT, no dogs) and the paved trail to the Visitors Center (1.4 mile RT) which we walked every day with our dog, Chase. Dogs and bikes are allowed on this trail through typical creosote scrub environment. We saw some shy coyotes each evening. There’s informative interpretive signage along the path describing the desert flora and fauna. We learned so much on that trail! The majority of plants in the desert have spikes, spines or barbs. You’ll notice how widely spaced they are—they each have their separate water-zone. Mine water! Stay away!

The subterranean Visitors Center and surrounding garden of desert plants are must-sees. The dramatic building’s creative architecture tucks it partly into a hillside with windows overlooking over the valley. Make the VC your first stop for info and self-guided tour maps. Pick up a trail map from the very informative rangers who can direct you to slot canyons, overlooks, the historic Southern Overland Trail, points of interest, etc. Ask about presentations at the amphitheater. One night, we put lights on our bikes and road up to the amphitheater for a wonderful one-hour lecture on mountain lions. We bundled up, wore gloves and hats, and filled our Hydroflasks with hot chocolate with Baileys!

In February, the nights were cool (low 40’s) and the days ranged from low 60’s to high 70’s. Humidity is low—about 12% when we were there. It IS a desert! It was a bit early for major wildflowers. It varies depending on rain each year.

Dark Sky: New moon/no moon is a good time if you can plan it. Anza-Borrego Desert State Park is an International Dark Sky Park, good for seeing lots of stars and the Milky Way. The town of Borrego Springs is a Dark Sky community with no stop lights to mess with your night vision. Lest you think it’s a free for all, there are stop signs!

Kids on Bikes: There are flat paved camp roads in loops where they can ride. Please instruct them about the dangers of walking “cross country” through cholla, beavertail cactus, and ocotillo. And bring pliers just in case.

Dogs: Leashed dogs are allowed on nearly all roads in the park—paved or unpaved—but not on trails except the trail to the Visitors Center. Don’t let your dog go off the pavement or gravel even a little bit!  Watch where they pee. Everything in the desert has spines.

Metal Sculptures: Don’t miss this free serendipitous adventure—driving the 22 mi round trip tour of 130 metal sculptures dotting the desert on the Galleta Meadows Estate. Plan 2-3 hours to get up close and enjoy giant serpents, T-Rexs, mastodons, scorpions…oh my! Pick up a map and brochure at the Visitors Center.

Groceries: Two small, well-stocked grocery stores (Desert Pantry and Center Market) are on your way to camp—across the street from each other on Palm Canyon Dr. If you want specialty items, best to stock up at a larger supermarket in a city prior to arriving.

Our week went very fast. Even though we envied those with extra vehicles who were  more mobile, we managed to cover a lot of territory on foot from camp. On our last day, we drove out of Anza-Borrego via Road 22, taking our time to tour the metal sculptures and checking out the points of interest accessible in the motorhome. Then we stopped to walk along the shell-crusty “beach” of the Salton Sea, and peer into the yellow-green water at the amazing creatures surviving in that warm toxic water.

That last night we stayed at the lovely Indian Waters RV Resort (with two dog parks) so we could be close to our next day’s adventure—visiting the Living Desert Zoo and Gardens in Palm Desert. If you haven’t been there, please go—and plan for at least 3 hours. You’ll see wildlife and striking native plantings from Africa, Australia and the Americas. Feed giraffes. Walk among wallabies. See rare rhinos and 500 other animals, birds, reptiles. Get tickets ahead of time online.

Camping Reservations: First go to the Anza-Borrego Desert State Park website and familiarize yourself with the campground(s). Then go to www.reservecalifornia.com to book your site. There’s a rolling 6 month window and this park fills up fast, so mark your calendar.

I’ve rated the campsites at San Elijo Beach State Park and Anza-Borrego Desert State Park which is very helpful when I’m home, making reservations and want to get the best site available. If you’d like a copy of my campsite rating maps for any campsites I’ve reviewed, just request it on the contact page. FYI, I will never sell or share your email address.  It’s safe with me!

Happy camping!